Beginnings of a Revolution

In the early 1990s, Caroline Scheufele recognized a gap in Chopard’s offerings while working as a designer at her family’s watchmaking firm. Despite being an avid sports enthusiast, she found that the brand lacked sporty, stylish watches for women.

“I used to do a lot of sports, like skiing and swimming and tennis,” said Scheufele. “I realized we didn’t have anything cool like a sports ladies’ watch.” This realization led to the creation of the Happy Sport, launched in 1993. It was groundbreaking as it was the first women’s watch to feature diamonds set in steel, showcasing Chopard’s unique “dancing diamonds” design. Over time, it became a hallmark of women’s horology.

A Shift in Focus at Watches and Wonders

At the recent Watches and Wonders trade show, Chopard unveiled a diverse range of women’s timepieces. Among the highlights was a limited-edition Happy Sport adorned with a pale blue alligator leather strap, alongside various extravagant jewellery watches, elegant dress models, and minimalist designs suitable for any gender.

According to Scheufele, “I think today a woman’s watch is actually her own choice based on taste, whether that’s a very sporty watch or a watch that’s fully set with diamonds.” The evolving choices reflect broader trends in women’s preferences and lifestyles.

Women’s Timepieces on the Rise

The demand for women’s watches is gaining momentum, with a recent report by Allied Market Research projecting the segment to grow from $23.7 billion (€22.2 billion) in 2019 to $26.7 billion (€25 billion) by 2027. This growth has not gone unnoticed by various luxury watchmakers.

Major brands showcased an array of women’s watches, including Hermes’ pioneering women’s sport watch “The Cut,” Chanel’s latest capsule collection inspired by haute couture motifs, and Cartier’s innovative cuff watch, “Reflection de Cartier.”

“The brands are certainly incorporating more strategy around appealing to women,” said Brynn Wallner, founder of the watch blog Dimepiece. “I feel like they want to engage more with female audiences.”

Breaking Barriers in Collecting

The increasing interest of women in high-end watch collecting signals a transformative phase for the industry. Rolf Studer, CEO of Swiss brand Oris, believes the growth of female collectors is indicative of a broader inclusivity trend. “Watch enthusiasm is becoming a thing,” he noted.

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ edition has gained popularity among both men and women, initially inspired by the designer’s wife. This approach emphasizes color and accessibility, attracting a diverse audience.

Oris has also focused on sustainability with models like the Aquis Upcycle Date, crafted from recycled materials, resonating deeply with eco-conscious buyers.

A Gender-Neutral Future

Today’s luxury watch market is increasingly embracing gender-neutral designs, allowing consumers to select timepieces based on personal style rather than traditional gender norms. Notable brands like Zenith, IWC, and Patek Philippe are part of this shift.

Studer expressed optimism for the future of watchmaking, highlighting the need for contemporary representations in advertising and marketing: “Hopefully personalities like Yusra will shape that, and not just the old-fashioned model who is nothing else other than just pretty.”