On this International Women’s Day, we must confront the ongoing gender disparities that persist within the fashion industry. Although this vibrant sector is predominantly fueled by women, it remains largely driven by male leadership. Systemic issues such as gender bias, pay inequality, and exclusionary practices continue to obstruct efforts towards a fairer fashion landscape.
Championing Gender Equality
The Global Fashion Agenda and PwC’s 2024 report titled Unpacking Pay Equity in Fashion: Italy, highlights that women constitute about 60% of the workforce in Italy’s fashion manufacturing sector. However, a mere 27% hold leadership roles. This trend is not confined to Italy; women across global supply chains frequently face underrepresentation in decision-making positions, perpetuating gender-based power imbalances.
Vertical segregation in the industry further intensifies this inequality, with women disproportionately occupying lower-paying roles. Notably, in Italy’s leather and tanning industries, 66% of the workforce is female, yet leadership remains largely male-dominated. The textile sector mirrors this scenario, where only 17% of managerial positions are held by women.
Motherhood further complicates these inequities. Nearly half (43%) of survey participants from the Unpacking Pay Equity in Fashion: Italy report believe that having children adversely affects women’s career advancement. Employment data reveals that the rate for women without children is 71%, but this number plummets to 58.4% for mothers. Conversely, men with children enjoy an employment rate of 91.1%, outpacing their childless counterparts at 84.8%, showcasing deeply ingrained societal norms that hinder women in the workforce.
Globally, female migrant and informal workers are particularly vulnerable, facing heightened exploitation risks due to weak legal protections and lack of collective bargaining rights in many garment-producing nations. Disturbingly, gender-based violence and harassment continue to prevail; for instance, a study in Cambodia found that 87% of garment workers reported experiencing verbal harassment or unwanted physical advances based on their gender.
Bridging the Gender Gap
Despite these obstacles, viable solutions are attainable. Establishing structured career advancement initiatives can address the disparities in leadership roles. In Italy, a mere 5% of surveyed companies offer extended paid paternity leave, making it crucial to promote shared caregiving responsibilities in order to dismantle traditional gender roles. Furthermore, regulatory frameworks such as the EU Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive compel brands to take increased accountability for gender equality in their supply chains.
Fostering Fair Wages
Italy’s unadjusted gender pay gap stands at 4.3%, lower than the EU average of 12.7%. However, when considering factors such as job roles, education, and experience, the wage discrimination gap rises to 10.9%. Women in Italy’s textile sector earn 19% less than men, with average daily wages of €80 compared to €107 for their male counterparts. Similar patterns occur in the leather and tanning industries, where women earn approximately €82 daily, while men make €100.
Globally, wage disparities induce significant challenges. In Bangladesh, men can earn 30% more than women for equivalent roles. Notably, Pakistan and India have some of the highest pay gaps in garment manufacturing, standing at 64.5% and 34.6% respectively.
Advancing Wage Equity
Numerous systemic obstacles hinder attempts to close the gender pay gap. In Italy, while 80% of CEOs surveyed deny the existence of a gender pay gap in their firms, only half of larger companies actively monitor wage disparities. To enforce accountability, mandatory pay reporting and transparency regulations are essential. It’s worth noting that about 81.3% of fashion manufacturers in Italy are small enterprises to which pay equity laws do not apply, underscoring the necessity of extending fair wage policies to SMEs and subcontractors. The fact that over 70% of part-time workers in Italy’s textile industry are women further complicates the issue by limiting their career advancement and financial security. Implementing equal pay policies for part-time positions and providing pathways to full-time opportunities is imperative.
Encouraging responsible purchasing practices is vital for ensuring equitable wages, timely payments, secure employment, and fair compensation along the value chain. These practices influence pricing and deadlines, ultimately impacting workers’ earnings. According to the 2023 ACT Accountability and Monitoring Report, brands have recorded a noteworthy 8-point improvement in incorporating wages as itemized costs in purchasing prices, a 2.6-point rise in fair payment terms, an 11-point increase in brands committing to responsible sourcing training, and an 18-point hike in the adoption of responsible exit strategies.
Building an Equitable Industry
While there has been advancements in diversity and inclusion efforts within consumer-facing roles such as marketing and fashion events, internal progress within corporate and supply chain frameworks remains sluggish. Alarmingly, half of the large fashion companies surveyed lack policies that ensure equal pay for all employees. Furthermore, awareness of diversity, equity, and inclusion (DE&I) is particularly lacking in small and medium-sized enterprises.
Moreover, gender discrimination often intersects with other forms of marginalization, including race, migrant status, and type of employment. A significant lack of transparency in supply chains exacerbates these issues, especially as numerous Italian brands outsource production to subcontractors with unregulated labor practices.
The Pursuit of Inclusion
For genuine inclusion to take root, fashion brands need to move beyond superficial commitments. Standardized corporate accountability measures must be established to track disparities in wages, promotions, and hiring practices. Leadership teams should also undergo training designed to mitigate biases in promotions and focus on objective performance evaluations. It is essential that brands are held accountable for ethical labor practices throughout their supply chains, ensuring that subcontractors adhere to fair labor standards.
Future Directions
As the fashion industry endeavors to move towards greater sustainability and ethical labor standards, prioritizing gender equality, fair wages, and inclusion must lie at the heart of these initiatives. International Women’s Day serves as a critical reminder not only to acknowledge these pressing challenges but also to commit to meaningful systemic change.
By instituting stronger policies, enhancing transparency, and fostering equity at all levels of the fashion supply chain, the industry can emerge as a powerful vehicle for empowerment.
Now is the time for fashion brands, policymakers, and industry leaders to take decisive action—because a truly sustainable and ethical fashion landscape requires the recognition and fair treatment of all workers, regardless of gender.
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Download Unpacking Pay Equity in Fashion: Italy for further insights.
